Fast Car

Replacing the old belt for a new generator in the cellar, even for a man who understands the minimal unit vehicle and the rules of its operation. Below you will find directions for replacing the device for people who are over trifles do not want to leave their money at service stations. 1. At the very first step you will need to know if the generator belt needs replacing. A characteristic feature of possible problems with the generator belt is the occurrence of whistling while working electrical appliances car (usually a whistle appears when you turn on lights or tape). Also in the car can be equipped with a special indicator, which "inform" you about a problem with the generator belt. In this case, there are several possible options: either the belt has worn out, or it should pull up. 2. Further, should find himself the belt generator. It is located on the left of the motor vehicle. Before you start work on replacing the belt should be muted car, remove the key from the ignition and disconnect the wires from the battery. So, now immediately begin to search for signs of unfitness belt. Most often these are the signs of cracks and breaks. If you can not find such evidence, then most likely the belt slightly stretched and it should pull up. 3. To replace the belt will need to purchase a new one. If you're not too well versed in the details, it would be best to remove the worn-out belt and go to a specialty store for professional assistance. To remove the belt you need to reduce the degree of tension. To do this, find yourself tensioner (most often it is represented by a bolt and nut), take the open-end wrench or a union of the appropriate size and weaken the nut on the bolt tensioner. Selection of the form key depends only on your personal preference. 4. Before removing the worn belt generator overhaul, as it is to accurately and install the new belt. Desirable even record the sequence of locations, so that when you install you do not have any problems. 5. To remove the belt of the generator, as mentioned above, need to loosen the tensioner bolt. Please note that fully unscrew the nut is not necessary. Enough to unleash it the moment when the degree of belt tension is reduced so that it will be possible very easily removed. 6. Install new belt in the same way as was the old belt. It is very important for normal vehicle operation. The book's manual of your car must be specified average degree of the belt because the belt of the generator should not be too tight. Much tension can also cause damage to the car. 7. The last stage of the generator belt replacement - verification of his work. First of all, do not forget to remove their tools from under the hood. Reconnect the battery. Start the car and, if possible, turn on all appliances that are in the car (lights, sound system, cooling system, interior lighting, etc.). Can also be little pressure on the gas pedal. If there is whistling the same as that of a worn belt, it says that the belt is not tight. Should repeat the procedure with the car off and battery and a little to tighten the belt.

Any driver novice or experienced, can undergo a collision with an inexplicable, at first glance, the problem. For example: after a heavy rain you are going to his car on a personal matter. The rain was heavy and the roads there were large puddles and pools. You're inside the car, the water can in no way claim the comfort of your stay in the car. Driver anyway, whether rain or not. You simply presses the accelerator pedal, and enjoy the beauty of the high towering waves, raising the wheels of your car. Some of the waves even washed the hood and windshield, with what brushes successfully cope janitors. This creates the impression that the car is an effort to overcome a strong barrier and is galloping ahead, and that you great pleasure. But suddenly, the car suddenly wedge driven wheels, she whistled the chassis on the wet asphalt, abruptly stops and the motor stops. Any attempt to run the heart of the car did not yield a single result, the engine is not going to work. Well then, allow me to "congratulate" the engine of your car earned a hammer. Hammer the engine happens when the engine block, by penetrating through the filter of air enters the liquid. Water in their physical properties is not able to contract, in contrast to the mixture of fuel and air, as far as we can judge from the corresponding branch of physics. So imagine: Coming through the puddles you and your car creates a wall of water ahead of itself. The water, trickling down to drains wings car fills those same channels, and sprayed around the engine, and without any obstacles can get in the cylinder block through the air filter element. The following action occurs when water gets into the cylinder: on the compression stroke, while the valve is closed, the piston going up and runs into a water tube. The internal pressure of the cylinder increases many times. And the engine will continue to move in an attempt to bring the rod to the end point before the explosion of a mixture of fuel and oxygen. Piston in a cylinder or a few incredibly fast stops, and the crankshaft, while continuing to rotate, takes on a fantastic load, break piston pins, connecting rods, oppression, and often critical breaks. Typically, a group of pigs after such an incident should be totally replaced, and well even if the trouble for this and end and will remove those that are. Sometimes a lot of pressure splits the engine block, which is already by itself harmful to the engine as a whole. Wanted slugging for diesel engines: the reason is the high degree of compression. In this type of engine is relatively smaller volume of the combustion chamber and the throttle - no. Therefore, the damage the diesel engine can be much faster than gasoline. Virtually all drivers know that When fording the engine to give maximum load, without harm, the possible speed, so that water through muffler and resonator does not hit the exhaust manifold and then into the engine and did not stop his work and repair. The higher the turnover, the more damage the water causes the motor with hydraulic shock. Therefore there is a cardinal rule: in any case did not pass a huge puddle at high speed.

The sequence of execution: 1.Neobhodimo warm up the engine. 2.Zatem unscrew the drain plug on sex trafficking. Then set the container for collecting oil and unscrew the plug. 3.Dozhdites until all the oil will flow down, pushing capacity if needed. 4.Protrite cover and if necessary change the sealing washer. Wipe the area around the hole and tighten the cap. 5.Pod oily filter set capacity for oil. 6.Pri using tools remove the oily filter. 7.Dalee clean place to install the filter, lubricate oil seal for the filter. Secure it and then tighten by hand. 8.Zaleyte oil and check the dipstick. 9.Zapustite engine and make sure that no leakage around the Pancake filter and plugs the drain. Note: On models where the turbocharger is installed is not recommended to raise the engine speed until the indicator light goes off oil pressure. Check brake pads front brake on the Audi 100 In order to check the brake pads, need to raise the front of the car. Then remove the front wheels. The thickness of the brake pads can be seen through a hole on the front calipers. To define more precisely of wear, they must be removed and cleaned. If the thickness of some stocks fell more than the permissible value, then they need to change on both wheels. Replacing spark plugs in the Audi execution sequence: 1.Neobhodimo unscrew the screws and remove the cover from the valve cover. 2.Dalee mark the high voltage wires and disconnect them from the spark plugs. 3.Protrite area around the spark plug, and slowly at the special tool to remove the candle. 4.Izmerte spark gap spark plug with a special tool or set of probes. 5.Podognite its tip, thereby otreguliruete it. 6.Ustanovite spark plug in place. To facilitate their work, put a short pipe at the candle. This segment will serve as a universal joint and do not give a groove crank. Removing Pancake pan Audi execution sequence: - In the first lift and secure the front of the car - next step is to remove the lower guard engine and then pour the engine oil - Good fix the engine on the lift - Remove the front cover of the gearbox - Next you need skurit lower engine mount nuts - under the front suspension crossmember install the jack, loosen the screw and slightly lower crossmember - Remove the pan bolts - Remove the pan. Installation: Before installing the need to clean the surface of the pan and cylinder block, and then install a new gasket. Setting the tray is carried out in reverse order of removal.